Alexander McQueen Fall 2015

Portrait by Egon Schiele

"Nature, facilité et beauté" sont les trois mots que Sarah Burton a utilisé pour décrire la dernière collection Alexander McQueen, inspirée par les peintures d'Egon Schiele et le poème "The Sick Rose" de William Blake. Cela expliquerait pourquoi les roses étaient prédominantes, et dans des formes très diverses. On les a d'abord vu embossées sur des manteaux en cuir laqué noirs, brodées sur un manteaux beige puis imprimées sur des robes en organza. Mais elles ont surtout pris vie lorsqu'elles furent aperçues dans les volants des robes, coupées et maîtrisées de façon à ce qu'elles aient la forme d'une rose. Dentelle, tulle, plumes et de très fines franges ont donnés à la collection un côté très romantique et poétique, et les cols nous ont rappelé l'ère Victorienne qui en était aussi une grande inspiration. L'utilisation de cuir noir et rouge a, cependant, donné de la force à la collection. Somme toute, c'était une collection imprégnée d'un romantisme sombre, qui avait un côté à la fois étrange et beau.

"Nature, facility and beauty" are the three words Sarah Burton used to describe the latest Alexander McQueen collection that was inspired by Egon Schiele's paintings and William Blake's poem "The Sick Rose". That would explain why roses were predominant, and in very diverse forms. We first saw them embossed on black lacquered leather coats, embroidered on a beige coat and then printed on organza dresses. But they mostly came alive when they were perceived in the ruffles of dresses, cut and handle so that they were shaped like a rose. Lace, tulle, feathers and very fine fringes gave to the collection a very romantic and poetic side, and the collars reminded us of the Victorian era which was also a big inspiration. The use of black and red leather, however, brought some strength to the collection. On the whole, a darkly romanticism ran through this collection that had a weird but beautiful side.

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